How to Shorten an Open Ended Zip

It’s not always possible to find the perfect zip length. Or perhaps, the specific colour you need isn’t available but it is in a longer length. Well all is not lost! Don’t let it compromise your project. If in doubt, buy a longer zip than needed as you can always shorten it. That way, you’re not restricted to settling on that zip that doesn’t quite match, or having to use a finer zip even though you wanted a chunky zip etc. Here’s a simple tutorial to show you how to shorten an open ended zip for coats, jackets or hoodies, so now you know you have more options when it comes to zip lengths.

A helpful thing to remember when buying a zip, is that a zip’s length is determined by the measurement of the zip teeth from top to end, and not the zip tape.

So let’s take a look. First think to note, is that an open ended zip is always shortened from the top.

Figure out your desired zip length by measuring from the bottom of the zip to the top of the zipper head, where you want the zip to stop . Mark a line at this point (A).

Mark another line about 1.5 to 2 cm above this point (B).

This is where you cut but before you do...

* ENSURE YOU HAVE MOVED YOUR ZIPPER BELOW POINT (A) BEFORE YOU CUT!*

You can melt the top edge of the tape with a flame to prevent fraying.

Using a small pliers, you can remove any extra teeth that are on the tape above point A, but it’s not essential. Just make sure you create a ‘stopper’ to prevent the zip coming off. See next step…

To ensure the zipper head doesn’t come off, you will need to create a ‘thread stopper’ on both sides of your tape. You can either use a hand stitch by wrapping the thread around the top tooth and through the tape a few times, creating a bump of threads, or use a zig-zag stitch on your machine, but I find the hand stitch method gives me more control and less chance of smashing a needle!

Another method is to simply fold down the top of the excess tape towards the back at a slight angle, right on that top tooth but be sure it’s folded tightly, otherwise the zipper head can come off.

Stitch the tape down to secure.

You can also create a little fabric cap using bias tape or scrap of fabric. Simply slip the zip tape into the folded fabric, fold it over the top and stitch down. This method is used in The Forest Coat.

That’s it. Your shortened zip is ready to install. Make sure you create a good stopper using any of the three methods mentioned above so your zipper head doesn’t come off.